Day 234 – Kinlochteacuis to Liddesdale 19 miles 2600’ of ascent

Friday 9th September 2022

Last night we took the larger car to the end of today’s walk and so this morning we had a short drive from Lochaline to Kinlochteacuis. We squeezed the Volvo onto the only verge space as we had yesterday. The only formal parking is 2 miles back up the road and we could certainly do without any extras today.

House at Kinloch
Looking back to the loch head

We walked a short way up the private road and then right up an estate track. The peninsula is not amenable to being walked around but there are two routes over the top to Loch Sunart. Originally we were going to take the shorter route which follows Bealach Sloc an Eich but reading reports elsewhere, there were potential blockages from fallen timber and the like and, though the ascent had been managed, the descent had caused some problems. The longer route we are taking adds three miles and some height but is on verifiably passable estate tracks and is almost certainly faster walking and so things will even out. Neither route would be very near the sea nor provide views of the sea so we do not feel we are missing out on very much. 

There was a steady climb from Kinlochteacuis

We were following up the glen, well above the Kinloch River and with every metre of ascent the views opened up more and more. The day was warm but there was thin total cloud cover and at times it looked as if it might rain.

Beinn Iadain

We were heading to the west side of Beinn Iadain which looks to be an interesting and eminently climbable mountain.

Another time, perhaps.
The tiered west face of Beinn Iadain
View down to Glencripesdale

We went over the pass at 360m or thereabouts. Here the track passes out of the Kinloch Estate to the Glencripesdale Estate and there is a locked deer gate. We climbed the rickety ladder stile which wobbled and had a broken rung on one side.

On the other side there were some drainage channels to negotiate to get back the track. We were now in forestry land but the tree planting was well back from the track and so we had good views around us. The path meanders its way down Glencripesdale until it eventually comes to Loch Sunart.

The estate track to Glencripesdale
Crossing a new ladder stile

Near the loch side is a Scottish Rights of way signpost indicating three possible routes and just a little confusing.

We now had a steady ten mile walk along the track beside the loch. The track is good and firm and was quite pleasant walking but seemed to have little evidence of regular vehicular traffic; it is probably much quicker by boat.

The Glencripesdale Estate

The loch is lined by natural forest of oak and birch mainly. We found a place on the shore near Glencripesdale where we could sit on the rocks though I improved my seat with a hunk of wood as a makeshift bench. We had coffee overlooking the loch.

An old beached barge used as a jetty
Camas Salach holiday lets. They are very remote.
Even in remote places TV and internet can be accessible
Small islet on Loch Sunart
The heather was in bloom
A fish farm on Loch Sunart using what looks like a submerged submarine as part of its operation.

At lunchtime we struggled to find anywhere at all to sit to eat our lunch and kept walking a bit further hoping we might find suitable rocks or logs; we have sit-mats but it is not very comfortable sitting directly on the ground unless it is on a bank or there is something to lean against. Eventually we found a couple of tree stumps to perch on in area felled many years ago. 

View down Loch Sunart to Ardnamurchan
Laudale House

We passed the very impressive Laudale House and, as respectfully requested, we took the shore route past the house.

Who needs a lawn mower when you have some very tame deer
The last 2-3 miles from Laudale House to Liddesdale

Now we just had about two miles of tarmac back to the car.

That is the direct route
Moonshine on our last night at Lochaline

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