Sunday 2nd October 2022
We are keen to finish walking at least to Kilchoan but the reason we brought the Volvo with us is because there are simply no public transport options nor taxi firms covering this area; if we can’t come up with an alternative, we may simply have to go home. Now we are down to one car, our former relaxed logistics have hit the buffers and the only option on a Sunday is to hope we can hitch a lift. On the basis that it is easier for just one of us, without a rucksack, to get a lift and there would be more vehicles on the road in the afternoon than first thing on a Sunday morning, we decided to drive back to the start of the walk at Laga. With very limited parking options, we left the car parked in the same place where the Volvo had “died” yesterday – and hoped we were not tempting fate. We were walking by 8.30 and the plan was to walk fairly fast to give maximum time to get a lift back to retrieve the car.
The walk along the road is quite pleasant with mature natural woodland beside the road and intermittent views along Loch Sunart.
We came to the Ardnamurchan distillery which is quite a new one – one of many small distilleries trying to find a niche in the market place. Just along the road was the Ardnamurchan Natural History Visitor Centre where we had stopped for coffee back in 2009 on the day we cycled from Kilchoan to Glenuig. Sadly, today, we were too early as the café would not be open for another twenty minutes – and so we just kept walking.
At Ardslignish the way along the coast is barred by the mass of Ben Hiant which, though only 528m, forces the road inland along the edge of a wide valley with very steep sides. It is known locally as the “drop”. The single track road is protected with crash barriers.
The views are spectacular. At the top of the valley the road goes over a pass to loop around Beinn nan Losgann before turning to descend to the coast. There is an alternative route by following a path between Ben Hiant and Beinnnan Losgan. This would be the more direct route but involved a bit more climbing over rougher terrain and some doubtful paths to find. Given we were trying to finish as early as possible, on balance we thought we might be quicker going along the road even though it was 2 miles further. It is a pleasant walk, effectively crossing the peninsula and then returning. The cows we had found blocking the road when we driven along it earlier were grazing along the verge and watched us pass.
There were good views across Loch Mudle and out to the Sound of Arisaig and the islands of Muck, Eigg and Rum.
At the top of the pass, a couple of cars passed us, one with two kayaks strapped to the roof. They stopped at the car park just ahead and we realised four of the people who got out were those who had given Jill a lift in their camper van to Strontian yesterday. We stopped briefly to chat and they asked if the car was fixed to which we replied “No” and explained we were still in limbo, not sure if we would be able to continue beyond Kilchoan or not. We thanked them again for their help and pressed on along the road.
The road descends steadily to Kilchoan. The rutting season is almost upon us and the bucks were bellowing on the hillside and the does were forming into harems waiting for “service” to begin.
We were back at the studio flat by about 13.10. Jill suggested she should try hitching a lift back to Laga from just outside as drivers might feel more inclined to stop for a lone female. If no lift came along after about half an hour, there would be just enough time for me to walk back to retrieve the car, hitching as I went.
Our host was busy cleaning the pod next to the flat that they also let out and so we went and enquired about any local taxi or private hire or even bike hire. There is none but since they were going to collect their son from somewhere in the direction of Strontian, they thought they could make room for one of us in their car – and so we gratefully accepted a lift for an hour hence, which meant neither of us had to try hitching and we had time to eat our lunch.
We had had no confirmation of the hire car booking for Monday morning so had ruled out driving two hours to Fort William for when the hire firm opened at 8am. I had sent an email saying that as we had not had a confirmation, we would not be there for an 8.15 pick up and would try ringing them in the morning to find out if a car was available.
Jill and I discussed our options for tomorrow. With only one car, our original plan to drive round to leave one car at the end of the walk at Fascadale did not work. However, since I was now getting a lift back to Laga and had time on my side, instead of bringing the car back to Kilchoan, I could drive to Fascadale and leave the car at the end of tomorrow’s walk. I could then walk back the seven miles to Kilchoan trying to hitch a lift as I went. Jill said it was ridiculous to think I would need to walk the whole way as any passing car was bound to stop for me – especially if I stood in the middle of the road to flag them down.
The lift back to collect the car seems simple until, as we approached the aforementioned “drop”, cars were filling all the passing places as far as the eye could see and nothing was moving. The cause was an ambulance blocking the road as they scooped up a motorcyclist who had somehow come off his bike without “the help” of another vehicle. This all took ages and we were stuck for about an hour during which time I found out lots about out host who is a keen runner and had run from Kilchoan to Fort William, that is 3 marathon’s worth.
When things started to move the ambulance came in our direction and passed us to find a location where they could transfer the casualty to an air ambulance. This meant we could move forwards and I was soon being dropped back at the car. Now it was 15.45 and I was well aware that, if I didn’t get a lift, I still had a seven mile walk to do which would take a couple of hours. I set off back in the direction of Kilchoan and Fascadale and became increasingly concerned at the absence of traffic heading towards me. Eventually I turned the corner and could see blue flashing lights of a police car blocking the road and an air ambulance standing on the single track road with rotors stopped.
There was nothing to do but wait for the casualty to be transferred and the helicopter to fly away. I got talking to the couple in the car behind me. They were on their way to Portuairk where they are staying for a few days. The conversation rambled on and finally as we were about to get back in our cars the woman looked knowingly at me and asked my profession, having already decided I was a doctor; as, it turns out, is her husband.
Once the road was clear, I headed for Fascadale and arrived at 16:45, a lot later than expected when I initially thought of this plan. I left the car and messaged Jill to give her an ETA of 7pm. That gave me 2hrs 15mins for seven miles. The walk was quite simple. I had about four miles to walk generally uphill to the main road and then three miles down to Kilchoan but I hoped I might get a lift. I can walk quite fast but I had to carry my heavy walking boots which had been left in the car boot and which I need for tomorrow. Fortunately I had a shopping bag to put them in.
The walk went well; getting a lift didn’t. No cars passed me on the road from Fascadale to the junction and on the main road just four vehicles passed me – all coming towards me – and the two vehicles that passed in my direction were both just as I was arriving at Kilchoan. The first was our host and his wife who collected their son from wherever and another car with a female driver. I did not even try to hitch since I was only 400 yards from the studio flat. Instead I sent Jill a message to put the kettle on. She had put the afternoon to good use, sorting out our gear, preparing supper, washing a couple of walking shirts and doing sandwiches for Monday.
The result of today’s very protracted afternoon is that, as long as we start early and walk reasonably fast, we can do tomorrow’s walk as planned and, if the car hire firm has a car available, drive straight from the end of the walk to Fort William and get there to pick it up just before they close at 5pm. It also means we will hopefully finish walking before the worst of the storm. What we probably won’t be able to do is to ring the car hire office when they open at 8am as we’ll be at the remote end of Ardnamurchan without a phone signal.
Emily had been following events since the Volvo breakdown and was keen to help. She suggested Jill sent her the details of the online booking and said she would try ringing them at about 8.30 when they would have had time to check their bookings and read our email. If they hadn’t got a car, she would ring other firms for us to try to find one; she knew we really wanted to complete the remoter sections of Ardnamurchan and Knoydart this year to give us an easier section for resuming next year. So we crossed our fingers and got everything ready for an early start in the morning.
Just Coasting 