Monday 1st November 2019

Last night was wet and windy though I was dry and relatively comfortable. Having expected a cold night I put on a jumper but was then too hot. Curiously there are lots of hares around the campsite. Perhaps they know they won’t get chased by dogs (or shot). 
I went through my morning routine – tea, porridge and get the tent down. I was on my way by 8:00. First it was into the town and round the harbour before heading along the beach to Beadnell.

Freshly smoothed, damp sand left by the receding tide is great for walking on- smooth level and stone free. I diverted off the beach to get past Beadnell and then got down on to the beach once more. The official coast path runs parallel but on the far side of the coast road and is probably muddy. Though it was raining intermittently the sea was good to watch and there was a good selection of birds.

The advantage of the beach is that it is a little bit shorter especially when the tide is out. Eventually I had to head inland to a bridge (Long Nanny Bridge) over the Brunton Burn. 

Before long I was entering the Dunstanburgh golf links and a notice on the path said “All welcome in the club house”. Very non-Surrey. Since it was raining harder and gone 11am, I called in for a coffee and a late breakfast.

Afterward I headed across the golf course and a short section of beach before reaching Dunstanburgh castle, looking sinister under the heavy sky. Thereafter the coast comprises low, rocky cliffs and the path winds along the top.

I could have stopped for lunch in Craster, famed for its seafood in particular crab. But I had eaten at the Golf Club.

On and on the path went until at last the northern reaches of Almouth beach appeared and I took the opportunity of walking the sands again. I probably could have followed it right to Alnmouth but there was a rocky spur to get over and I didn’t know what might be on the other side and so I diverted up to the non-tidal main path into Alnmouth.

Then I had a mile or so to go to the AirBnB cabin in Lesbury. Another 21 mile day. Having got access as per instructions I had a cup of tea and a snooze then headed back to Alnmouth for supper at the Red Lion. Now for an early night to make the most of a comfortable bed.

31st October 2019

Last night was my first time back in my little tent for years. The old routines soon came back. Having walked back from the Lindisfarne Inn, I  was settling in to my tent by 20:30. Normally that would be much too early to try to get to sleep but I was quite tired and reading in a sleeping bag by  torchlight is not easy and so I settled on sleep. I was not expecting a wonderful night’s sleep; let’s face it I usually don’t get to bed until 11pm and am awake by 6am. Ten hours lying on the ground trying to sleep seemed a tall order. I listened to the trains which were surprisingly loud in the still night air. Then a little later there was a flurry of cars going by as the Lindisfarne causeway became passable again. Then I slept. Sure I struggled to get really comfortable and at some stage I was cold down one side because I had not done the sleeping bag zip right up. Around two I awoke and checked the time but the next time I felt inclined to reach for my headtorch it was 6:20, getting light and time to be up. 

A mug of tea followed by porridge and I was striking camp and on my way by 8am. 

I returned to the Lindisfarne crossing and continued the coast path but after 400 yards it turns inland to negotiate a way around Fenham Flats and Budle Bay where there is no connecting path and so not possible to navigate safely. The route inland was not unpleasant though there was quite a lot of field edge walking. I crossed the mainline without calling the signal man for permission and then felt guilty but I could see both directions and it was silent. Next I had to negotiate the A1 which was distinctly more difficult. The cars and lorries may not got at 100mph like the trains but there are an awful lot of them. Next was a section through woodland which eventually opened up to give views to Lindisfarne. Then the path turned downhill and I passed the impressive Belford Pele House on the way into the village.

Belford is quite pretty and big enough to have a Co-op, a chemist, a fish and chip shop but most importantly a nice little café. By now it was about 11:30 and so I fancied an early lunch. Soup and a panini followed by lemon meringue pie. 

This stone tower near Warren Mill is shown on maps as a windmill but there is no historical evidence for this and I think it is too conical to allow clearance for the sails.

Lunch done, I had to renegotiate the A1 and shortly after I was ringing the signal man at Tweedmouth for permission to cross the mainline again. Then there was more tarmac and some fields to get back to the coast at Bamburgh links. The light over the sea was good.

Just before Bamburgh, I got on to the beach and walked on the damp sand almost to Seahouses. There were lots of people and dogs on the beach. I couldn’t work out which way the tide was going but there was a good margin of damp sand so I guess it was going out but that didn’t seem to fit with the Lindesfarne crossing times. Just before Seahouses I crossed the dunes to take the road to Springfield campsite.

Frustratingly a sign indicated the camping entrance was round 3 sides of a square from the holiday cottage entrance, so I walked the extra half mile but I discovered that pedestrians are allowed through the direct entrance; they just don’t want cars disturbing the posh people. 

I got the tent up, showered then made a mug of coffee. By the time I had sorted my sleeping gear and other stuff out it seemed like time to wander into Seahouses and an early supper. I decided on the Ship Inn and, though the bars were heaving, I was told I could use the lounge and they were happy to serve me supper there since I had not got a table booked.  A good meal in warmth and comfort – ideal.

I walked the mile back to the campsite and settled in for the night but took the precaution of putting on an extra layer since the temperature was dropping fast.

30th October 2019

The train arrived Berwick a few minutes late, then I had to queue to pay for a baguette in Greggs to put in my pack for lunch (well there didn’t seem to be anywhere else obvious and I thought they would be quick – they weren’t). So I got started properly  at 11.00. Down through the town and over the old bridge then turned left for the coast. Tweedmouth has a long, sandy beach and esplanade and looked well cared for and almost prosperous compared with many. I rather liked the blue railings with the sun on them. The path gains some height at the end of the beach. The path (also Route1 cycle route) follows the top of low, sandstone cliffs. The day was quite bright and sunny. A few cyclists were struggling with the slightly muddy track; I think cycling the Route 1 off-road sections calls for mountain bike tyres, at least in winter.

Thought it was time for lunch near Cheswick. Loads of seats – on the golf links. Would have borrowed one but the golf course was busier than I have seen any golf course. Eventually had lunch at Beachcomber perched on some old horse jumps. The path then hugs the edge of the beach excepting where it turns inland briefly to use a footbridge over a stream. I certainly would not fancy wading across with all the unpredictable mud and water flow.

The path is obviously a bit tidal but after the footbridge is definitely tidal and there is an alternative path which cuts inland to the road. I made the soggy tramp around the edge towards the Lindisfarne Causeway. I noted the tank traps just inland from the path itself and noted that there was enough grass above high water level to make camp if for any reason the site at Beal Barn was closed. The tide was now coming in quite fast and various sightseers were walking back to their cars, turning around and heading for safety.  There has been lots of birdlife on the salt marsh. Oyster catchers, curlews and flocks of something similar size to starlings but dull, grey-brown as best I could see (but perhaps they were just starlings). 

Arrived Beal 15:00, pitched tent then showered followed by tea in their café which was open until 5pm. It seemed sensible to sit in comfort for as long as possible. When they had closed I went back to my tent to sort it out before walking up to the Lindisfarne on the A1 with view to an earlyish supper. The walk is about a mile and so I had plenty of time to warm up before eating. I had fish and chips but sadly not the best. I hung around at the inn until about 20:00 before heading back for my first night under canvas for a good many years.

I have always kept a notebook with me on my walks and, at the end of each walk, I have transcribed my notes. Jill, my wife, has then combined them with my photographs and constructed old-fashioned albums on card which interested parties (mainly family) have been able to browse in the comfort of an armchair.

Times have moved on and now everyone shares their experiences digitally and so I am going to try and do the same so that anyone who is interested in what we are doing can follow my progress.